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Slow Cooker

A slow cooker is a trade: you give up control during cooking in exchange for not having to be there. That trade is excellent for tough, collagen-rich cuts that need hours of gentle heat, and poor for anything that depends on browning or a precise finish.

The recipes here lean into what it's actually good at, and are honest about the step most slow cooker recipes skip — that browning the meat first, in a separate pan, is usually what separates a rich braise from a grey one.

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Getting Slow Cooker right

Brown the meat first, even though it's another pan

Nothing browns in a slow cooker; there's no dry heat and no way for moisture to escape. Ten minutes of searing in a hot pan before the meat goes in is the difference between a deeply savoury braise and something that tastes boiled. Deglaze that pan with a splash of liquid and tip it all in — that's where the flavour is.

Cut the liquid by about a third

Slow cookers lose almost no moisture: the lid condenses steam and returns it to the pot. A conventional braise recipe transferred directly will come out thin and watery. Use noticeably less liquid than feels right, and reduce the sauce on the hob afterwards if it still needs concentrating.

Choose the cut that wants the time

Chuck, shoulder, shin, brisket and thighs are full of connective tissue that needs hours to melt into gelatine — which is exactly what a slow cooker provides, and what makes the sauce feel rich. Lean cuts have nothing to convert and simply dry out, no matter how long you give them.

Add dairy and fresh herbs at the end

Cream and soft cheeses split over long cooking, and fresh herbs turn to khaki sludge. Stir them in during the last twenty minutes. Hardy herbs — bay, thyme, rosemary on the stalk — are the exception and can go in at the start.